. . . in Botswana, wilderness doesn't end at the borders of a park. Beyong lies a huge expanse of bushland where great herds of animals roam a wilderness still governed by its own rules . . . what Botswana has is wilderness . . . Botswana, many say, represents the last of Old Africa. And in the heart of this arid land lies a place as inspiring and as incongruous as the snow-capped summit of Kilimanjaro rising on the equator: the Okavango Delta, one of the greatest wetlands on earth, whose very existence in the middle of the Kalahari Desert is nothing short of miraculous.