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Chipmunk Perspective. Use what I call the “chipmunk perspective” when photographing wildlife. In other words, get down on the same level as your subject, which may require lying low to the ground like a chipmunk when making the image.
Shooting from this perspective not only adds a sense of importance to your subject, it can eliminate many background distractions. I’ve also found that subjects often become curious when they see me lying on the ground and occasionally come closer to check things out.
Up Close & Personal. Nowhere in the “Ten Commandments of Wildlife Photography” is it chiseled in stone that an image must show the entire animal. It’s all right if only an eye and portion of your subject’s face are portrayed.
Back yard photography makes frame-filling shots easy since most subjects, over a period of time, come to accept your presence and allow an up-close-and-personal approach.
Blinds. Although I’ve made numerous images while simply standing in the open, I’ve found that many species are less intimidated if I’m seated in a chair. In the short term, a blind may be necessary when working extremely wary subjects. Over a period of time, however, I’ve found that a sense of trust becomes established between photographer and subject.
Open Window. One of the best moves that I’ve ever made was when I arranged my office furniture in a manner that would allow me to sit in my easy chair while photographing subjects through an open window.
Just outside the window are several Douglas firs. In and under these trees, I’ve placed eight bird feeders - everything from sunflower and thistle feeders to my homemade suet feeders. Birdseed, dry dog food, and cracked corn are scattered beneath the trees daily.
The area has become a mecca for wildlife, some coming to feast on my offerings and others simply out of curiosity.
One day, a red squirrel hopped through the window in order to get a closer look at what I was doing. That, however, was nowhere near as surprising as the time I looked up and saw a black bear watching me from less than 10-feet away.
The only real problem I’ve encountered with this setup is finding time to get any work done. It’s much more fun to relax and watch the antics of my wild brothers and sisters.
Natural Lighting. Some of the best lighting - I call it “soft light” - typically occurs when a thin cloud layer conceals the sun; not so thick that all shadows are eliminated, but thin enough to allow faint shadows to appear. Completely overcast skies are not necessary for this condition to occur. On blue-sky days, simply wait for one of those puffy white clouds to drift in front of the sun.
“Spot lighting,” although one must often wait days before all the elements to come together, is one of Nature’s special gifts. Occasionally, an early morning sun’s ray will find its ways through the branches and spotlight a worthy subject against a dark background.
Whatever you do, avoid the combination of bright sunshine and harsh shadows like the plague. Images made under these lighting conditions usually wind up in the trash.
Equipment
Camera & Lens. Any camera body will work. However, I especially like the magnification factor offered by many of today’s digital cameras. Add a Nikon 80-400mm VR lens or a Canon 100-400mm IS lens and you have a combination that’s difficult to beat. The mobility and close-focus capability of these lenses is perfect for back yard wildlife photography.
A 200mm macro lens offers frame-filling capability at a longer working distance; an idea combination when photographing butterflies, frogs, lizards and other subjects that might flee if approached too closely.
Specialized equipment. Smaller subjects such a tiny insects often require special equipment.
Extension tubes, for example, reduce a lens’ working distance. The closer you are to your subject, the larger that subject will appear in the viewfinder.
A bellows extension provides essentially the same results as an extension tube. The difference being an unlimited number of settings, plus even greater magnification of image size.
The tiniest subjects requiring even more magnification can be photographed by stacking one lens atop another. Simply mount a larger-than-normal focal-length lens directly to your camera body. Using a reversing ring, reverse mount a smaller focal-length lens onto the larger one.
Focusing can be extremely difficult with increased magnification. The solution¾a rack and piñon focusing rail. My advice is to purchase one that can be adjusted laterally as well as backward-and-forward.
Flash. Fill-flash is important, not only for eliminating harsh shadows on bright sunny days, it’s great for bringing out the color of subjects photographed on cloudy days.
In TTL mode, I typically use settings ranging from 1.0 to +1.0. The actual setting depends on the brightness of ambient light, the tonality of my subject, and the amount of subject filling the viewfinder.
Lighter subjects require less light. Brighter days often necessitate increased flash output. Experiment to find which flash settings you prefer.
Miscellaneous
Know Your Subject. Whether you live in bear country like me or make your home along the Gulf of Mexico and photograph cicadas, it’s important to know your subject.
Bears are highly misunderstood creatures. Sure, the potential for danger is always present. However, if one truly understands bears and acts accordingly, the threat is minimal. The same holds true with all wild creatures.
Cicada attacks, on the other hand, are not something photographers need worry about. However, understanding the cicada’s life cycle is paramount in photographing the various changes they undergo from egg to adult.
The more knowledge you have regarding your subject, the better prepared you’ll be in capturing the essence of its personality.
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